I promised a trio of sauces, but I just had to get this in under the wire. If you like blue cheese - as I, swooningly, do - then know that this, dribbled over sliced, sweet tomatoes along with a torn-off log of baguette is a perfect enough supper just as it is. And you can make a fabulously retro steakhouse-style starter, by cutting a head of iceberg lettuce into wedges and dribbling each crunchy wedge with this plus, perhaps, a scattering of crisp-fried bacon crumbles. And it makes a fabulous dressing to dribble over leftover rare roast beef.

Put the crumbled cheese into a bowl, add the Worcestershire sauce, steak sauce, buttermilk, milk and the vinegar and mix gently until well combined. Thin if necessary with a little iced water. Chill until needed.

Make Ahead Note: The dressing will keep for 3 to 4 days in covered container in fridge - store in cold part of fridge rather than in the door.