Mushrooms are the star of this dish – both dried porcini and a mix of whatever you can find at your farmer’s market. Even the trimmings are used, along with the leek greens, to make a light, earthy and slightly sweet vegetable broth. (You could also use chicken stock if you’re not feeding vegetarians or use just plain water; prepared vegetable stock, however, would interfere with the flavor of the mushrooms.)
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Directions
Put the bay leaves, dark green parts of the leeks, mushroom trimmings and 1/2 ounce of the dried porcini in a medium saucepan with 8 cups water. Bring to a rapid simmer and cook until the stock is lightly flavored, about 20 minutes. Strain the stock and return it to the saucepan; you should have about 6 cups of vegetable stock. Keep warm over low heat.
Put the remaining 1/2 ounce dried porcini in a liquid measuring cup and add 1 cup of the hot stock. Let soak until softened, 5 to 10 minutes, then chop the porcini and reserve the soaking liquid.
Heat the olive oil and 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large deep skillet or braiser over medium-low heat. When the oil is hot and the butter is melted, add the sage and white and light green parts of the leeks. Cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Increase the heat to medium and add the mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms release their liquid, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase the heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the mushroom liquid is reduced, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper.
Add the chopped dried porcini. Cook until sizzling, about 30 seconds. Add the rice and stir to coat in the oil. Cook, stirring frequently, until the edges of the rice kernels become translucent, about 2 minutes, adjusting the heat so they don’t burn or take on any color. Add the wine and adjust the heat to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice absorbs the wine.
Add the porcini soaking liquid, stopping at any grit that’s at the bottom of the measuring cup. Add enough of the warm stock to just cover the rice. Adjust the heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is mostly absorbed. Continue to cook and stir, adding stock as needed to keep the rice covered, until the grains are al dente, about 18 minutes from the time you began adding stock. (You may not use all of the stock; that’s okay.)
Remove the skillet from the heat and beat in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter with a wooden spoon a few pieces at a time. Sprinkle with the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and stir it into the risotto. Season with salt and pepper, if needed. Serve the risotto immediately in warm shallow bowls with another sprinkling of cheese and some parsley.
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