beans | Food Network

Chef Sohui Kim thinks truffle oil is overrated. “I firmly believe that salt, a pinch of sugar and/or a splash of rice wine vinegar can always save the day,” she says. And that may very well be true—as long as you know how to wield those ingredients like Kim can. Sweet-salty-spicy flavors perk up cuisine from South Korea, her birthplace, and they now electrify the food at The Good Fork and Insa, the two Brooklyn restaurants she runs with her husband, Ben Schneider.But gochujang and kimchi aren't the only stars. On The Good Fork menu, fried calamari with fra diavolo and Parmesan are just below her savory, teriyaki-drizzled scallion pancake. It’s eclectic and fresh, but comfortably mom-and-pop cuisine. In The Good Fork Cookbook, Chef Kim describes her food as “traditional dishes heightened by a global pantry; classics, with just enough of a twist to make them new again.” It’s the kind of food that builds a following, so much so that after Hurricane Sandy damaged their restaurant, Kim was able to crowdsource $50K to rebuild.That kind of tenacity is what put Kim on the culinary track in the first place: after graduating from ICE, she secured an externship at Blue Hill under Chefs Dan Barber and Michael Anthony. They tried to persuade her to move upstate as they opened Blue Hill at Stone Barns, but the buzz of the West Village sounded more appealing, so she moved on to work with Anita Lo at Annisa.Kim brings her professional chops to Panna, but with a warm, homespun touch that's evident in the loving way she pleats pork dumplings (the ones that beat Bobby Flay's in a throwdown). Watch how she bundles veal shanks with butcher’s twine to make Osso Buco, the dish her husband cooked to woo her while they were dating. Other dishes taste totally familiar, but draw from the “global pantry” that defines Kim's style: pan-seared chicken breasts, bathed in a butter sauce funkified by Chinese fermented black beans, or a lentil salad specked with piquillos, a sweet Spanish chile. So, whether you’ve got flavor wanderlust or need a dose of edible comfort, Kim’s cuisine will satisfy and leave you hungry for more.Sohui's Restaurants:Insa (Brooklyn, NY)The Good Fork (Brooklyn, NY)Sohui's Book:The Good Fork Cookbook (2016)

Gabriela Cámara

PROFILES

Carnitas hiss in lard and black beans bubble as Chef Gabriela Cámara talks tortillas. “I’ve been making them this way since I was eight,” she says, kneading the masa harina dough. She tests the temperature of her comal, a traditional tortilla griddle, with her bare fingertips without flinching. It’s only 10:30 AM in our studio kitchen, but Cámara needs no warming up before we begin shooting. And there’s no stopping her. She is, after all, chef-owner of nine restaurants in Mexico and one in the US. Cámara never intended to be a food tycoon. The restaurant industry practically fell into her lap while she was studying art history in Mexico City. She and her friends loved eating fresh grilled fish on the coast but noticed that the city was missing a seafood scene, so she opened Contramar. Diners gobbled up her fresh tuna tostadas and grilled fish slathered with a striking duo of red and green chile sauces. “I’m taking advantage of a hole," she says, "of a missing part of cuisine in a city where people are so obsessed with food.” From stuffing tacos to building a Mexican restaurant empire, Cámara is skilled at filling the gaps. In San Francisco, a city that’s notoriously hard to find steady waitstaff, she opened her latest restaurant, Cala, with staff consisting mostly of ex-cons who have come through job-placement programs and halfway houses. “In Mexico, I’ve had all these characters...They get it together because they see an opportunity,” she explains. “I didn’t want to use it as a publicity tool...I did not have that pretension.”Cámara certainly favors deliciousness over pretension in her cooking as well, and that's why she’s created her Mexican Street Food class with us. You’ll learn to griddle homemade corn tortillas that taste nuttier and softer than any store-bought version; they're a key component of Cámara's tangy shredded chicken tacos, Baja-style fish tacos, deep-fried quesadillas, and egg-stuffed breakfast, all topped with homemade tongue-tingling condiments from Yucatán-style pickled onions to fresh salsa verde. There’s even more antojitos (literally "little cravings") in this colorful cooking course, and as Cámara will show you, they’re just as craveable in your kitchen as they are off the street.Gabriela's Restaurants:Contramar (CDMX, Mexico) Cala (San Francisco, CA)

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