Leeks are often overlooked as a vegetable, but this dish celebrates just how sweet and delicious they can be. They cook covered in the oven with a minimum of liquid until completely tender, then continue cooking uncovered until jammy and concentrated in flavor.
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Directions
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees F. Trim off the dark green tops from the leeks; you should have 6- to 8-inch lengths of the paler leek bottoms. Trim off as little of the root as possible. Halve the leeks lengthwise and wash well, rinsing out any dirt between the layers. Cut in half crosswise, keeping the layers intact.
Spread the butter in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Season the cut sides of the leeks with salt and pepper. Nestle the leeks cut-side down in a single layer in the baking dish. Season with more salt and pepper. Pour the chicken broth on top and drizzle with the olive oil. Scatter the thyme sprigs on top and cover tightly with foil.
Bake until a knife can easily be inserted into the leeks, about 30 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking, uncovered, until lightly browned on the bottom, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool slightly, then pull off any tough, papery layers.
Meanwhile, make the topping: Heat the butter and garlic in a small skillet over medium heat. When the butter foams, add the panko, chopped thyme, a pinch of salt and a grind of pepper. Cook, stirring, until the panko is golden brown, 1 1/2 to 2 minutes; remove from the heat. Discard the garlic. Stir in the lemon zest and season with more salt, if needed. Arrange the leeks on a platter, cut-side up, and sprinkle with the topping.
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Photograph by Ryan Liebe
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