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This classic dish, hailing from the French Alps, has warmed the hearts and bellies of French skiers for years. Our version is the perfect dish for a crisp fall or winter day – no skiing required! It’s traditionally made with Reblochon, a creamy cow’s milk cheese from the French Alps with a funky, orangey washed rind that packs a punch in both aroma and flavor. Washed-rind cheeses like Reblochon or Taleggio get their bold personality from being regularly bathed in brine or alcohol, which encourages that stinky, savory goodness. On the flip side, bloomy rind cheeses like Brie or Camembert have soft, white, fuzzy rinds thanks to mold (the good kind!) that gives them a gentler, mushroomy vibe. You can use either type of cheese here, based on what’s available to you, but a washed-rind cheese will impart a funkier flavor to the finished dish.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Lightly brush a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with olive oil.
Put the potatoes in a large pot with salted water to cover by about 1 inch. Bring to a simmer and cook until a paring knife slides in with some resistance (about halfway cooked), 8 to 12 minutes once the water returns to a simmer, depending on the size of the potatoes. Drain and let cool slightly, then slice into 1/4-inch-thick rounds.
Meanwhile, scatter the bacon in a large skillet and set over medium heat. Cook until the fat is rendered and the bacon is just crisp, about 5 minutes. (If the bacon is very lean, add 1 to 2 teaspoons of olive oil to begin the rendering process.) Drain off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon drippings in the skillet. Add the onions and season with 1 teaspoon salt and several grinds of pepper. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are wilted, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the thyme and garlic and cook until sizzling, about 30 seconds. Add the wine and adjust the heat to a rapid simmer. Cook until reduced and slightly syrupy, about 1 minute. Add the cream, bring to a simmer and cook until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
Spread half of the potatoes in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Top with half of the onion-bacon mixture, then top with the remaining potatoes. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Top with the remaining onion-bacon mixture and layer the Reblochon slices on top. Bake until the potatoes are very tender and the top is deep golden brown and bubbly, about 40 minutes. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving.
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