Believe it or not, most chefs like high-quality canned tomatoes over fresh. Canned tomatoes from Italy are picked at the peak of ripeness and are far better than tasteless fresh tomatoes out of season. Buy crushed or chopped Italian canned tomatoes for this dish. If you have to use a domestic canned tomato or tomatoes out of season, add a pinch of sugar to the sauce. Ripe tomatoes have a lot more sweetness and don't need the sugar.