You may know mortadella as a classic Italian sausage or have noticed the cold cut popping up more frequently at the deli counter and on charcuterie boards, sandwiches and pizzas. But what exactly is it, and how is it different from bologna? For more info, we consulted Paul Bertolli, chef, Master Salumiere and founder of Fra’Mani, an award-winning producer of salami, cooked salumi and smoked sausages.

What Is Mortadella?

Mortadella is an Italian emulsified pork sausage studded with small cubes of pork jowl that give it its signature mottled appearance when sliced. Mortadella may also include pistachios, olives or truffles, depending on the maker’s preference.

“Mortadella is a very finely chopped or ground meat emulsion made exclusively from pork that typically includes hog shoulder, leg, belly, snout and jowl. In “industrial” versions, pork skin emulsion, pork trim and tripe may be added,” Bertolli says. “Mortadella is seasoned with salt, whole black peppercorns and a combination of aromatic spices.” Fra’Mani’s mortadella is made without pistachios, as Bertolli believes that “it’s far more delicious.”

The Origins of Mortadella

The recipe for mortadella was formulated in the city of Bologna and ordained by papal authority in 1661. “Mortadella is considered the most well-known and consumed of the salumi category originating in the Emilia-Romagna region of Northern Italy,” Bertolli says. “According to one prominent traditional producer, it is 'the highest expression of the pig and the land.'”

Bertolli shares that the Archeological Museum of Bologna has two ancient stone tablets which depict pigs roaming about and an engraved image of a mortar and pestle. “The use of this tool indicates that pork meat was mortared to a fine “paste” and one may account for the (debated) derivation of its name, Mortaio della Carne (the mortar for meat), shortened to Mortadella,” he explains. “Other authors attribute the name to the use of myrtle berries (mirto) as the principal seasoning.”

What Does Mortadella Taste Like?

Bertolli describes mortadella as tasting “mildly salted, lightly seasoned with warm spices, with hints of smoke and rich in porkiness.” He notes that mortadella has a very smooth texture and a characteristic bite even when sliced paper thin.

Mortadella vs Bologna: What’s the Difference?

Mortadella and bologna, or baloney, are both pork sausages but they differ in ingredients, appearance, size, shape, texture and flavor. Bertolli breaks down the difference between mortadella and bologna.

Ingredients

Mortadella is traditionally made with high-quality pork from whole muscle cuts, contains visible cubes of pork jowl and is seasoned with salt and aromatic spices. It can have add-ins such as pistachios, olives or truffles.

American bologna is mass-produced, made with pork scraps (and sometimes beef), does not contain pork jowl and typically contains more preservatives and chemical additives. It doesn't have any add-ins.

Appearance

Mortadella contains cubes of pork jowl that give the sausage it’s irregular, mottled appearance when sliced.

Bologna is uniform in appearance.

Size and Shape

Mortadella is often larger and rounder with a diameter of up to 12 inches or more. Bertolli recommends purchasing it thinly sliced.

Bologna is typically smaller and is 4 to 5 inches in diameter. Bologna is often sliced more thickly than mortadella.

Texture

Mortadella has a more varied texture than bologna due to the visible pieces of pork jowl, as well as any potential add-ins, such as pistachios.

Bologna doesn’t contain cubes of pork jowl and is only made from emulsified meat so it has a uniform texture.

Flavor

Mortadella has a more nuanced, richer flavor than bologna owing to the quality of the ingredients, seasoning and addition of cubed pork jowl.

How to Use Mortadella

Mortadella makes an ideal appetizer when thinly sliced or cut into cubes, but it’s also delicious paired with cheese, added to charcuterie boards, layered onto sandwiches or pizzas or incorporated into stuffed pastas and meatballs. Here, Bertolli shares his top serving suggestions for mortadella.

• Wrap slices around breadsticks or lay it on tender, sweeter white breads such as pizza bianca, focaccia, sweet baguette or milk bread.
• Cut into cubes and skewer with pickled onions.
• Cut into cubes and mix in with warm olives and citrus.
• Layer slices under the cheese of a white pizza containing potatoes or leeks or both.
• Use as one of the savory components for stuffed pasta and Italian meatballs.
• Pair with condiments for sandwiches and charcuterie boards such as homemade mayonnaise, olive salad or preserves like semi-sweet fruit chutney or tomato jam.
• Pair with mild, soft-ripened cheeses such as Teleme, Danish Havarti, fresh goat cheese or Mozzarella di bufala.

How to Buy and Store Mortadella

Bertolli says that although mortadella appears to be readily available at grocery store deli counters, he recommends buying mortadella at specialty grocery stores, independent specialty food shops and higher-end grocery stores to ensure high-quality, artisanal mortadella.

When buying mortadella, look for a vivid pink color and get your mortadella sliced-to-order. If the mortadella is off-colored, it’s an indication that it has been exposed to light and/or air which is typical of mortadella in pre-sliced, sealed packages or mortadella from a deli case that has been pre-sliced and wrapped.

After purchasing sliced-to-order mortadella, Bertolli recommends consuming it as soon as possible to ensure the best taste and texture. “In general, I’m an advocate of consuming deli meat in accordance with the “use by date” on the sliced package,” he says. “After opening either the pre-sliced package or the deli wrap, close tightly in its packaging and store in the refrigerator.” According to the USDA, you can refrigerate packaged lunch meat or sliced deli meats for three to five days after opening.

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