This dish is all about celebrating peas at their sweetest, which means late spring is prime time. Fresh peas in their pods give you two gifts: the peas themselves and pods that make a delicate, slightly sweet vegetable stock. Traditionally, Vialone Nano rice is the go-to—it’s a medium-grain variety that soaks up the broth and all of the flavors beautifully. Can’t find it? Any risotto rice will work just fine. The result is a comforting, brothy dish that’s heartier than soup but lighter than risotto—perfect for that in-between season.
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Directions
Shuck the peas; you should have about 2 cups. Rinse 2 cups of the pods and place in a medium Dutch oven. Peel the onion and add the peel and the first 2 layers of onion to the pot. Finely chop the remaining onion and set aside. Add the carrot, celery chunks, parsley stems and Parmesan rind to the pot. Add 2 quarts (8 cups) cold water, bring to a simmer and cook until the broth is flavorful, about 30 minutes. Strain the broth; you should have about 6 cups. If you have less, add a little water to make 6 cups. If you have more, save the remaining broth for another use. Keep the broth warm.
Wipe the pot clean and set over medium heat. Add the olive oil and pancetta and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pancetta is browned and crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon to a paper towel-lined plate. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of the fat. Add the butter and when melted, stir in the chopped onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is wilted but not browned, about 3 minutes. Stir in the rice, coating it with the oil, and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Add 1 cup of the warm broth and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring, until almost absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the remaining 5 cups broth and bring back to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is about halfway cooked but still has a bite in the center, about 10 minutes.
Stir in the peas, return to a simmer and cook until the peas are tender and the rice is still slightly al dente, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the reserved pancetta, chopped parsley and grated Parmigiano-Reggiano. Serve hot, passing more cheese at the table.
Cook’s Note
If you can’t find fresh peas in the pod, swap in 2 cups of snow peas for the stock and use 2 cups of fresh or frozen peas for the soup.
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