Recipe courtesy of Esther Choi

LA Kalbi

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  • Level: Easy
  • Total: 1 day 1 hr 35 min (includes marinating time)
  • Active: 35 min
  • Yield: 4 servings
As far as Korean barbecue goes, LA kalbi is as Korean American as it gets, but no one agrees on where it came from. The most common story is when Koreans moved to LA and discovered the flanken-cut short ribs at Mexican markets, they marinated the meat with Korean flavors and LA kalbi was born. The other main story is more technical, claiming that because flanken-cut short ribs are a lateral cut of meat, “LA” is short for “lateral.” Maybe both stories are true. What I do know for sure is that every Korean American in the 1980s and ‘90s ate LA kalbi growing up. When I was a kid, I loved nothing more than chewing the sinew around the bone, and I’d get mad at my sister for not eating that part. Korean barbecue is all about hitting the sweet-savory balance between sugar, sesame oil and soy sauce, and you can use the marinade in this recipe, from my book Hand Taste: Cook Like a Korean Grandmother, for other cuts of meat. I also like to add fish sauce, which isn’t classic, but I believe it gives the meat much more umami. For serving, have shears to cut the short ribs into smaller pieces at the table. If you want to make it spicy, add a few spoonfuls of gochujang when you’re blending the marinade.

Ingredients

Marinated Short Ribs:

Serving:

Ultimate Ssamjang:

Directions

  1. For the marinated short ribs: In a blender or food processor, blend together the soy sauce, pear, onion, sesame oil, sugar, sake and garlic. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer, discarding the solids. Place the short ribs in a large casserole or storage container and pour the marinade on top. Turn the pieces a few times to make sure the ribs are thoroughly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours but preferably 2 days.
  2. One hour before grilling, remove the short ribs from the refrigerator. Remove them from the marinade, scraping off any excess with your hands, and place on a pan so they are ready for the grill.
  3. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat. (Or heat a lightly oiled and well-seasoned large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.) Cook the short ribs in batches, turning once, until pleasantly charred but not overcooked, 2 to 3 minutes per side.
  4. For serving: Put the short ribs on a platter and provide a set of kitchen shears so people can cut pieces in half if they’d like. Serve with sides of Ultimate Ssamjang (see Cook’s Note), rice, kimchi and lettuce leaves, if desired. Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Reheat in a toaster oven or sauté pan.

Ultimate Ssamjang:

  1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the gochujang, doenjang, garlic, scallions, sesame oil, mirin and sesame seeds. Ssamjang keeps in a sealed jar for up to 3 weeks in the refrigerator.
  2. To make tomato ssamjang: Add 1/2 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes and 1/2 cup sliced baby tomatoes.
  3. To make bacon ssamjang: Finely slice 2 strips of bacon, then cook until crisp. Stir the bacon and bacon fat into the ssamjang.
  4. To make apple ssamjang: Peel a Fuji apple and finely dice enough to yield 1 cup. Stir the chopped apple into the ssamjang. (Eat the rest of the apple as a snack!)

Cook’s Note

To work ahead, the marinade keeps in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 week or even longer. Once marinated, LA kalbi freezes well. Just take it out and let it thaw in the marinade before grilling. If you don’t have a grill, you can do this in a skillet. That’s exactly what my mom would do when I was a kid. She’d cut the meat into smaller pieces and add them to a skillet. The bonus is the marinade turns into a sauce that caramelizes around the meat. Ssamjang is the quintessential sauce that everyone knows and loves when they go out for Korean barbecue. A mix of doejang and gochuchang, it’s the Korean equivalent of ketchup-mustard-mayo special sauce; it’s every condiment mixed into one. Once you’ve discovered the flavor of ssamjang, you can’t really go back. My favorite way to use it is to dip crudité into it. It’s salty enough that it seasons the vegetables. But it also works great with grilled vegetables, meat or even fish. I also like to make variations, mixing in sun-dried tomatoes to make an umami bomb ssamjang or crisped bacon to make ssamjang to pair with bossam. Finally, I like apple ssamjang: It’s sweet, with a fun, crunchy texture. You can also make it your own by using more gochujang for a spicier take or less for a milder result.