To work ahead, the marinade keeps in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 1 week or even longer. Once marinated, LA kalbi freezes well. Just take it out and let it thaw in the marinade before grilling. If you don’t have a grill, you can do this in a skillet. That’s exactly what my mom would do when I was a kid. She’d cut the meat into smaller pieces and add them to a skillet. The bonus is the marinade turns into a sauce that caramelizes around the meat. Ssamjang is the quintessential sauce that everyone knows and loves when they go out for Korean barbecue. A mix of doejang and gochuchang, it’s the Korean equivalent of ketchup-mustard-mayo special sauce; it’s every condiment mixed into one. Once you’ve discovered the flavor of ssamjang, you can’t really go back. My favorite way to use it is to dip crudité into it. It’s salty enough that it seasons the vegetables. But it also works great with grilled vegetables, meat or even fish. I also like to make variations, mixing in sun-dried tomatoes to make an umami bomb ssamjang or crisped bacon to make ssamjang to pair with bossam. Finally, I like apple ssamjang: It’s sweet, with a fun, crunchy texture. You can also make it your own by using more gochujang for a spicier take or less for a milder result.