Sometimes, as a chef, I eat something in a restaurant or at a friend’s house and want to recreate the exact dish. I think chefs gather information and inspiration from all different places. One of the most exciting places has nothing to do with childhood or anything familiar—just pure deliciousness. This is one of those plates of food. I lived in Los Angeles for a few years and learned the fine art of eating and appreciating deliciously made Mexican dishes. This is the type of dish that tastes even better if made the night before and assembled and eaten the next day, when possible. For the black beans, I use a can of beans and its liquid to build this simple side dish. You can cook longer or even puree for different textures. I like this one a little on the chunky side. Add sliced fresh chiles with the seeds to make this spicy.
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Directions
For the enchilada sauce: In a large skillet, combine the olive oil and garlic with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat so the garlic becomes translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the flour and whisk quickly so it blends in and doesn’t clump. Add the chili powder, honey, cumin, granulated garlic, oregano and 1 cup water and stir to combine. Puree the tomatoes in the blender (or with an immersion blender), then add and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook until the tomatoes break down and the flour thickens the sauce, 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, cilantro and jalapeño. Keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
For the enchilada filling: In a large skillet, heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet. When the oil begins to smoke lightly, remove from the heat and add the white parts of the scallions and a pinch of salt. Cook for 1 minute, stirring, then add the mushrooms. Add the white wine and more salt and cook until the excess liquid cooks out, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in the zucchini and spinach and cook until they both wilt, 2 to 3 minutes. Season with salt. Drain in a colander to remove excess liquid. Set aside to cool.
For the assembly: Arrange the tortillas in a single layer on a baking sheet and brush each side with the oil. Warm in the oven until the tortillas soften, then stack them like pancakes to keep them from drying out.
Stir the crema into the enchilada sauce. Dip each tortilla fully in the sauce. Lay the tortilla on a flat surface and spoon a few tablespoons of the filling in the center; roll it up tightly like a cigar. Arrange each tortilla, seam-side down to lock in the filling, tightly in a row in the baking dish.
Spoon the remaining sauce over the enchiladas and place in the oven to bake until hot, 18 to 20 minutes.
Top with the cheese and reserved scallion greens; serve with sliced Fresno chile if using, lime wedges and the black beans.
For the black bean side: In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the coriander. Season with salt. Fry for 10 to 15 seconds, then add the white parts of the scallions, garlic, cumin and chili powder. Add the beans and their liquid and cook until the liquid reduces, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the mustard, scallion greens and cilantro. Finish with a squeeze of lime.
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