This choice of meat spoke to me because of the elegant process of studding, and the final presentation. Not to mention that people always walk away from the table happy when they have a delicious cut of meat.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. With a sharp boning knife, trim the thick cap of fat from the front of the rib bones. Carefully scrape the remaining fat from the surface of the bones to expose, or french, the bones. Reserve the scraps for a pan sauce. Slice the three cloves of garlic. With the sharp tip of the knife, make shallow incisions in the meat and insert the garlic and rosemary leaves. Tie up the roast with kitchen twine. Mix the black pepper, sea salt, and horseradish and press into the surface of the roast (set aside any remaining horseradish mixture for garnish). Allow the roast to rest at room temperature for a few hours before cooking.
Heat half the olive oil in a large, wide sauté pan over medium heat. Gently lay the roast in the pan and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. (The meat can be browned in advance, if you'’re pressed for time.) Continually baste the surface of the roast with the cooking fat from the pan, adding more olive oil as needed. Cut the head of garlic in half crosswise and add to the pan, along with the butter and a few sprigs of thyme. Transfer the roast and garlic halves to a roasting pan with a wire rack and cook in the oven, 45–60 minutes. Set the browning pan aside for the pan sauce. The meat is medium-rare when an internal thermometer reads reads 125 to 130 degrees F at the thickest point along the bone. Remove roast from the oven and allow to rest while you prepare the pan sauce.
Bring the sauté pan back to medium heat and add the red wine. Scrape the cooked meat bits and herbs off the bottom of the pan, and simmer until the wine has nearly cooked off. Add the demi-glace or chicken stock, and a little water if necessary. Simmer briefly, then pour the pan sauce through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside.
To cut and serve the roast: first, remove the strings. Cut the eye of the roast from the bones and thinly slice the meat across the grain. Lay the slices on a platter, drizzle with the pan sauce, some of the reserved horseradish mixture, and roasted garlic halves. Serve immediately.
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