Japchae is one of those dishes that instantly signals celebration. Traditionally served during Korean holidays and special occasions, it’s a showstopper — glossy, vibrant and layered with flavor and texture. This seafood take from my book Hand Taste: Cook Like a Korean Grandmother elevates the classic with sweet scallops, juicy shrimp and my favorite, tender calamari, woven through a tangle of chewy sweet potato noodles. The key to truly beautiful japchae is patience. Each vegetable is cooked separately, allowing every ingredient to shine in its own color and texture — no muddy hues, no overcooked bites. Because every vegetable cooks at a different pace, this extra step preserves their integrity and keeps the final dish as visually stunning as it is delicious. The sweet potato noodles are the heart of it all: springy and uniquely satisfying, with the perfect chew that makes japchae so craveable. Tossed together at the end, everything comes into balance — savory, lightly sweet, deeply aromatic. It’s a dish that feels festive, looks breathtaking on the table and tastes even more impressive than it looks.
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Directions
For the noodles: Put the noodles in a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and add enough warm water to fully submerge them. Let sit for 30 minutes.
For the dressing: In a bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, mirin, sesame oil, brown sugar, white pepper and garlic. Let stand at room temperature while you prep the remaining ingredients.
For the vegetables: Set a large heatproof bowl near the stove. In a large skillet, heat 2 teaspoons of vegetable oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and season with a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the onions are brownish-black on the edges but still a little crunchy, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl.
In the same skillet, heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Add the carrots and a pinch of salt and cook until slightly charred but still crunchy in the center, about 3 minutes. (You may need to lower the heat to avoid scorching the carrots.) Transfer to the bowl.
Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Add the scallions and a pinch of salt and cook until slightly charred but still crunchy in the center, about 3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl.
Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Add the green bell pepper and a pinch of salt and cook until slightly charred but still crunchy in the center, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl.
Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Add the red bell pepper and a pinch of salt and cook until slightly charred but still crunchy in the center, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl.
Lower the heat to medium and heat the remaining 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Add the mushrooms and cook until slightly golden around the edges, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to the bowl.
For the seafood: In the same skillet, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil over high heat. Add the scallops and cook until a golden brown crust forms on the undersides, about 3 minutes, then flip and cook 30 seconds more. Transfer to the bowl with the vegetables.
Heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Add the shrimp and cook, turning once, until golden brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to the bowl.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Add the calamari and cook, stirring often, until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the bowl.
To finish the noodles: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the soy sauce and brown sugar. Drain the noodles and cut into thirds. Add the noodles to the boiling water, using tongs to help submerge them. Cook according to the package directions, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain in a colander, shake off the excess water and immediately add to a large bowl. (Do not rinse the noodles with cold water.)
While still warm, add the seafood and vegetables to the warm noodles. Pour in the dressing and use your hands or a pair of tongs to mix until the ingredients are incorporated. Taste, adding more soy sauce or sesame oil if desired. Transfer to a large serving bowl and sprinkle sesame seeds on top. Let sit for 10 to 15 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to meld.
Cook’s Note
To rehydrate dried shiitakes: In a small, heatproof bowl, cover the mushrooms with 1 cup boiling water. Put a weight on top (like a lid) to keep the mushrooms submerged as they hydrate. Let sit until softened, at least 20 minutes and up to 3 hours for larger mushrooms. (You can test one by slicing it in half to check if the center is still dry and firm.) Drain the mushrooms and squeeze out excess water.
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