A Complete Guide to Cooking With Squid Ink

The idea of consuming squid ink may seem unappetizing for those possessing less adventurous palates, but the ingredient is an undisputed statement-maker on any plate. Despite a dramatically black appearance that lends itself well to spooky Halloween-themed dishes, the taste is surprisingly subtle, deliciously briny and even carries trace amounts of vitamins, minerals and immunity-boosting antioxidants.

It’s likely you’ve stumbled across its use in pasta or paella, but as culinary masterminds challenge themselves to expand recipes and include more out-of-the-box components, squid ink is having a bit of a dietary renaissance beyond being a visual gimmick.

Fresh off the heels of a $20 million hotel renovation, we chatted with the Admiral Hotel Copenhagen’s executive chef of on-property aye aye, Andreas Tancula Møller. Not only is the gastronomy expert and Sol over Gudhjem award-winner a fan of the ocean-derived liquid, but he has also found ways to innovatively incorporate it into his own restaurant’s menu, including a clever cocktail that would give even Ursula a run for her money.

What Is Squid Ink?

Squid ink is the dark, salty fluid that squids and other members of the cephalopod family eject from an internal sac, often as a defense mechanism to hide from predators. The solution contains melanin, which gives it its deep color (like in a human’s skin, hair and eyes), as well as mucus to create a murky cloud in seawater. It also carries nutrients like amino acids and minerals that lend themselves to its characteristically savory and umami bite.

What Does Squid Ink Taste Like?

Aside from the aforementioned notes of salinity, Møller adds that there is often a unique and “subtle sweetness” derived from the ocean.

“But I also use it for its visual qualities,” he admits. “Color influences how we approach food, so the deep black can change the way you experience a dish before you have even tasted it.”

What Does Squid Ink Bring to a Dish Beyond Oceanic Flavors?

While squid ink layers in the unmistakable flavor nuances of saltwater, there are two reasons why Møller enjoys cooking with the ingredient most:

1. Optical reinforcement: “A brioche baked with truffle butter, truffle salt and mushroom juice already has a very distinct flavor. Adding squid ink and turning the brioche black strengthens the connection to black truffle,” he says. “You see the color, smell the truffle and taste it. For me, those elements working together can make the dish feel more complete.”
   
   
2. Sensory contrast: “Ink can also be interesting when the appearance goes against what you expect from the flavor,” he shares. “Imagine a light summer dessert with milk, honey and herbs underneath a very thin layer of black ink gelée. You break through something dark and dramatic and find something light and delicate underneath. That contrast can make the dish more memorable.”

What Is Squid Ink Mostly Used For?

Squid ink is most classically used in starches that will absorb its flavor and color. This includes pasta, risotto, paella and even breads like hamburger buns for an eye-catching alternative to golden brown.

At aye aye, seafood is part of the Mediterranean menu’s ethos and squid ink, in particular, is infused into one of the restaurant's signature snacks.

“We gently prepare organic Danish blue mussels so they are almost raw, serve them back in their shell and pair them with an emulsion of squid ink, fermented garlic and 15-year-old sherry,” explains Møller. “The ink works particularly well with the natural sweetness of the mussel, while the fermented garlic and sherry bring depth and acidity. And, of course, the black ink against the mussel shell also makes for a very distinctive presentation.”

The use of squid ink in at-home cuisine is also more approachable than ever. For beginners, try this squid ink paella from Tyler Florence (pictured above), a squid ink pasta with calamari and chorizo from Robert Irvine or this playful squid ink tempura fish and chips from Antonia Lofaso (pictured below).

What Are Creative Ways To Use Squid Ink?

Though primarily highlighted in food, Møller plays into his gastronomic expertise by adding squid ink to an inventive cocktail.

“Instead of olives or pickled garnishes in a dry martini, I sometimes float a paper-thin layer of squid ink and kombu oil on top,” he reveals. “It adds salinity and umami while creating a strong contrast against the clear martini.”

Inspired by marine oil spills, Møller admits that the libation is a bit of a “dark reference,” but he finds the contrast to be visually unsettling, though still delicate and balanced in flavor. “It also gives the guest something to think and talk about before tasting the drink,” he says.

How Can One Source Squid Ink?

Squid ink is more mainstream in Europe and can be found in many fish and farmer’s markets, though any specialty seafood shop in the U.S. can likely point interested customers in the right direction.

“I look for pure cuttlefish or squid ink without added dyes, artificial colors or unnecessary preservatives,” Møller advises. “Fresh ink sacs directly from whole squid are ideal. If I use a jarred paste, I look for one with a smooth consistency and a clean smell of the sea — never metallic or sour.”

If fresh isn’t a huge concern, popular brands on Amazon include cuttlefish ink from Alises, squid ink packets from Black Hut as well as this jar from Marky’s, which currently holds the e-retailer's coveted spot as “highest-rated.”

Back to Black

While squid ink undoubtedly brings a discernible cool factor to a dish, Møller warns against only using it as a stunt, at least if you want it to make a lasting impression beyond Halloween season.

“I’m generally skeptical of squid ink when it is used simply to make something black — for example, in a standard black ravioli where it doesn't contribute anything meaningful to the flavor” he laments. “For me, flavor always has to come first.”

Consider using it sparingly as a sauce or condiment to start or experiment by adding it to carb-heavy recipes that can stand up to the addition of a new or unusual element.

“In my everyday life, I’m a simple guy wearing a pair of Levi’s jeans. But in my chef whites at aye aye, I like having the freedom to be more creative,” he adds. “A plate gives you the opportunity to play with flavor, appearance and expectations. The first impression can catch your attention, but ultimately, the food still has to taste good.”