Goujons have fallen out of favor over the last two decades, but it is hard to work out why. The crunch of the bread crumb casing, the tender, yielding softness of the white fish within: this is a fishfinger taken to the highest level. The traditional accompaniment is a tartar sauce, but my favourite sauce is a dill mayonnaise, with perhaps some cornichons tumbled on a plate nearby. Consider these a fabulously quick starter when you've got people over or a real treat of a midweek supper for two. The trick is to prepare ahead for that. I make up a vast batch of these and freeze them. Then, when it's dinner time and I don't know what I'm going to cook, I heat some oil in a pan and fry a handful from frozen. They barely need an extra minute. I prefer to fry in batches in a small saucepan rather than fill a frying pan with a lot of oil and try and get them all done at once. If you can find the Japanese seasoned bread crumbs, panko, then get them: they create an almost feathery but crunchy casing.