For the cured cobia: Mix together the salt, sugar, and zests and juice of the lemons, limes and oranges. Completely submerge the cobia in the cure and chill in the refrigerator for at least 45 minutes.
For the pine nut relish: Dry toast the nuts in a medium saute pan over medium heat for 4 to 6 minutes, just to release some of the flavor. Do not burn.
Mix together the toasted pine nuts, raisins, capers and just enough olive oil to coat.
For assembly: Remove the cobia from the cure, cut out the blood-line (if applicable) and discard. Cut the fish into thin slices and arrange layered on a serving dish. Drizzle with some olive oil and lemon juice. Arrange the relish on top. Garnish with bottarga, if using, or sprinkle with some salt and pepper.
Recipe courtesy of Chef James Petrakis/The Ravenous Pig/Winter Park, Florida