The combination of thin chewy rice noodles wrapped around crunchy fried dough with a drizzle of sweet soy sauce was irresistible to me and my siblings growing up and is still a must during any weekend dim sum meal.
Preheat the oven or a toaster oven to 350 degrees F.
Whisk the rice flour and tapioca starch in a medium bowl. Slowly add 1 1/2 cups room temperature water, whisking continuously, until a smooth yet loose mixture forms. Try to break up any little lumps and be sure to mix in any flour on the sides of the bowl. Let sit for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the soy sauce, sugar and 1 tablespoon water in a small saucepan over low heat, whisking occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved, about 2 minutes. Stir in the sesame oil. Set aside.
Split the fried dough sticks in half lengthwise, then cut the halves into 4-inch logs to make 10 logs. Place the logs on a baking sheet lined with a cooling rack. Bake until completely warmed through and crispy, about 2 minutes. Remove and let cool slightly.
Set a steamer rack in a large wok or wide pot and fill with water up to the rack, about 2 inches. Bring to a full boil over high heat with the lid on.
Generously grease two 8-inch nonstick round metal cake pans with vegetable oil, about 2 teaspoons. Set one aside. Add the scallions to the batter, then give it a nice whisk to make sure it is fully combined. You will have to whisk the batter each time before making a batch. Pour 1/4 cup of batter into the prepared cake pan. It will not fully coat the bottom of the pan.
Adjust the heat under the wok to medium high, carefully remove the lid and place the pan on the rack. Cover and let steam for 15 seconds. Remove the lid again and move the pan around to try to coat the bottom as much as possible; the batter should be slightly set but still loose enough to flow. Let steam for another minute. Carefully remove the lid and, using oven mitts, remove the pan to a trivet. Let sit for 30 seconds. Place 2 pieces of fried dough directly in the center of the rice noodle, creating a line down the middle. Using a silicone or plastic bench scraper or spatula, cut the rice noodle in half, creating 2 semicircles with a piece of fried dough on each side.
Focusing on one rice noodle semicircle at a time, gently fold over one of the sides to cover the fried dough. Fold the remaining side directly on top, tucking the flap under the roll to hide the seam. Repeat with the remaining semicircle. Transfer to a dinner plate and use scissors to cut the roll in half crosswise, creating 2 pieces per roll. Repeat with the reserved prepared cake pan.
Continue with the remaining batter and fried dough pieces, whisking the batter each time and using a clean paper towel to wipe down the pans before greasing them with vegetable oil. Otherwise, any residual batter could cause a rip. Drizzle half of the sweet soy mixture all over the rolls and serve the rest on the side.
You can find the fried dough sticks in the refrigerator or freezer section of Asian markets.
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