New York’s Hottest Pizza Is Actually From Japan
Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza has arrived in the United States — and I got a coveted reservation.
Erin Byrne
Pizza is one of New York City's most iconic foods, right up there with bagels, the bagon-egg-and-cheese and black and white cookies. But the most exciting new pizza place in the city isn't a classic New York slice — actually, it's a style most Americans haven't tried.
Pizza Studio Tamaki, which opened in Manhattan last month, is bringing Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza to the United States. And in a city of very opinionated pizza lovers, it's a hit.
What is Pizza Studio Tamaki?
Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) is a restaurant by Chef Tsubasa Tamaki that serves his take on Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza. Its first U.S. location opened in New York City’s East Village on May 5 “following a hugely successful two-day pop-up in February,” the restaurant says in a press release. PST also has locations in Tokyo, Bangkok and Singapore.
What is Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza?
Like classic Neapolitan pizza, PST’s pies are made in a wood-fired oven to achieve a blistered crust, but Chef Tamaki adds a few extra touches.
“The difference begins with the dough, which is made using a proprietary blend of Japanese, American and Canadian flours that is milled in Japan and imported exclusively for our use,” Chef Tamaki tells Food Network over email. The team tested 700 flour combinations before landing on this particular blend, which he keeps a secret.
The dough is then fermented for 30 hours, which “helps develop both the airy texture and the flavor profile that define the pizzas,” Chef Tamaki says, then it’s “kneaded according to my exact specifications, resulting in the distinctive crimped crust for which I have become known."
The pies are cooked at 480 degrees Celsius, according to a press release from the restaurant — that's nearly 900 degrees Fahrenheit! “A signature technique from Tamaki includes adding Japanese cedar shavings to the fire, imparting a subtle aromatic smokiness to the crust,” it adds.
Finally, a little extra seasoning gives the crust a unique flavor.
“I also use Okinawan salt to season the oven during the cooking process, which is one of the special techniques that gives the pizza its distinct finish,” Chef Tamaki says.
Erin Byrne
What do New Yorkers think of Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza?
So far, the reception of PST seems to be overwhelmingly positive. Chef Tamaki was surprised — especially considering how particular New Yorkers can be about their pizza.
“It was a bit scary, and I felt a lot of pressure to make sure everything was perfect,” he says. “New York is a city with many different styles of pizza. Much more than in Tokyo, so the customers are very knowledgeable. I was thrilled to see the guests enjoy the pizza I made; their surprised expressions were unlike anything I had seen before.”
Sabrina Choudhary
My honest review of Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza:
I had the opportunity to try PST for myself. I ordered the Tamaki, a pizza topped with DOP san Marzano, cherry tomatoes, smoked mozzarella, Pecorino-Romano and basil.
The crust is truly the part worth talking about. It came out warm and soft, tender with some bitterness from the charred spots, which are so crispy they shatter. I noticed the hint of salt on the crust and couldn’t get enough, especially when dipping it into the puddles of tomato juice. (And they're very juicy — Chef Tamaki recommends popping them with your fork before digging in.) It was pretty amazing. When I started to feel full, I ditched the toppings and polished off the crust. I don’t think I’ve done that with any other pizza in my life.
But crust aside, it was solid pizza. The tomatoes tasted perfectly fresh and summery, while the mozzarella added even more smokiness. Along with the crust, it might be a bit overpowering for some, but I happen to love smoky flavors and really enjoyed it.
Where else can you try Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza?
Chef Tamaki says the only other restaurant he knows in the U.S. serving it is Pizzeria Sei in Los Angeles, CA. However, it's possible you could try it elsewhere down the road.
"I want to spread the taste of PST all over the world," Chef Tamaki says.
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