When diners sit down at Kindred, 30 miles north of Charlotte in the tiny town of Davidson, servers immediately bring to the table a freshly baked pouf of Kindred’s now-famous “milk bread” and cultured butter. That simple gesture sets the stage for a meal so thoughtful and memorable that it has earned Chef-Owner Joe Kindred several nominations for a James Beard Award. Small, beautiful plates mean tablemates can share from a changing array of seasonal dishes along with mainstay favorites. Squid ink conchiglie pasta, with North Carolina-caught shrimp and sea urchin butter, consistently earns raves. Duck-fat potatoes with garlicky aioli are satisfyingly crisp. Even humble broccoli smartens up when dressed with peppery romesco sauce, a fried egg and Manchego cheese. The same imaginative spark infuses the cocktail menu, but the wisest decision is to simply select “Barkeep’s Choice.” Finish with cinnamon ice cream and butterscotch cookies.