The farmers' markets are full of beautiful fall squash; right now, our favorite is the kabocha squash. It has rich, firm flesh that's not watery. We prepare the squash like we would prepare meat to concentrate the texture and flavor.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Cut the squashes in half horizontally. Scoop out the seeds and discard. Dice the preserved lemon rind.
Place the squash halves, cut side up, on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle the flesh with olive oil, salt, pepper, diced preserved lemon rind, and a squeeze of lemon. Roast uncovered in the oven, 1 hour.
Remove the squash from the oven. Cut into large wedges, drizzle with the remaining olive oil and lemon juice, salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. Serve immediately, or use in Pasta with Roasted Kabocha Squash and Pecorino Romano (see recipe).