Chicken with Balinese Spices: Ayam Betutu

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4 pounds fresh chicken

Betutu spice, recipe follows

Salt and pepper

Tamarind water (4 or 5 strips of deseeded tamarind pulp dissolved in 1 cup water), to soften

Banana leaves (or greased parchment paper and aluminum foil)

3 salam leaves (can substitute bay leaves)

Serving suggestion: Coconut Pandan Rice: Nasi Gurih, recipe follows

Betutu spice:

1/2 cup peeled shallots

1/4 cup peeled garlic

2 tablespoons fresh turmeric

2 tablespoons fresh peeled ginger

2 tablespoons galangal

2 tablespoons wild ginger

3 whole candlenuts

2 tablespoons Balinese 1000-spice

2 tablespoons fresh hot chile peppers seeded and cleaned

4 tablespoons shrimp paste

2 tablespoons finely chopped peanuts

1/4 cup coconut oil

Coconut Rice: Nasi Gurih:

2 1/2 cups jasmine or Thai rice

1/2 cup coconut milk

2 1/4 cups chicken or vegetable stock

3 cloves garlic, sliced

1 blade lemongrass

4 salam leaves

2 Bali or kaffir lime leaves

2 1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock

Salt