There are lots of wood chips to choose from. We like the stronger, traditional flavor that hickory or mesquite gives to this dish. Fruit woods such as apple and cherry are delicious with milder meats, such as pork, poultry, or fish. Chips also come in different sizes-either chunks or bits. The chunks don't require soaking and produce a big blast of fast-burning smoke. The bits, which do require soaking, produce smoldering smoke.