In a saucepot over medium-high, heat the wine and calvados to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium. Toss the cheeses with cornstarch, and then stir them into the wine in small batches with a wooden spoon. Season the fondue with nutmeg and a little pepper, to taste. Thicken the fondue, but stir often to keep it smooth, making sure it never boils. Adjust the flame under your fondue pot once it is transferred to the table to keep the fondue at a low, occasional bubble. Serve with bread and fruit.
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