Cioppino: A Fine Kettle of Fish

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1/4 cup (3 turns around the pan in a slow stream) extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

2 to 3 flat fillets of anchovies, drained

6 cloves garlic, crushed

1 bay leaf, fresh or dried

2 celery ribs, chopped

1 medium onion, chopped

1 cup good quality dry white wine

1 (14-ounce) container chicken stock

1 (32-ounce) can chunky style crushed tomatoes

4 sprigs fresh thyme, leaves removed (about 1 tablespoon)

1 handful flat-leaf parsley, chopped

1 1/2 pounds cod, cut into 2-inch chunks

Salt and pepper

8 large shrimp, ask for deveined easy-peel or peel and devein

8 sea scallops

16 to 20 raw mussels, scrubbed

A loaf of fresh, crusty bread, for mopping