Cook the beef, stirring, in a dry medium skillet over medium-high heat until golden and starting to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and pour off any excess liquid. Add the olive oil to the pan.
Reduce the heat to medium and cook the onions, stirring occasionally, until browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the cumin, chili powder and garlic and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle in the flour and cook, stirring, until the flour smells toasty, 1 minute. Pour in the beer and canned tomatoes and chiles, bring to a boil and cook 2 minutes. Gradually add the milk, whisking, and bring to a gentle boil until thickened, about 2 minutes. Add the cheeses and reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring frequently, until the cheese fully melts, about 3 minutes. Stir in the reserved beef.
Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with cilantro and serve warm with chips.
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