Trying to replicate that real New York-style combination of a shiny, crusty exterior and a dense, chewy middle has driven some bagel makers to go so far as to import water from the Big Apple for the cooking process. But these bagelries don't rely on gimmicks, just great family recipes and the good old-fashioned boil-then-bake technique that leaves just about everyone craving a schmear.

Where: The Bagel Factory: St. Louis; Kaufman's Bakery and Delicatessen: Skokie, Ill.;  Wholy Bagel: Austin; The Bagel Broker: Los Angeles