Why did manicotti go out of style? It seems so out of fashion and yet I love the baked tubes touched with fresh spinach and lots of lemon zest. I used to be obsessed with only grating the outer layer of lemon zest to get the floral notes and oils, leaving the bitter pith behind. Now I love the pith. Grate the zest, then grate even deeper. One large lemon could yield 3 to 4 tablespoons zest and pith, and we want those flavors in here.