Alex Stupak Makes a Comeback

It’s been nearly 20 years since Alex Stupak competed on Food Network. The last time he tossed his toque blanche into the ring, he won Iron Chef. And, despite two decades standing between his last win and latest conquest, Alex is going all in. Rather than wading back into the competition circuit with a laid-back bake, the premier chef and restaurateur is diving headfirst into the pressure cooker of all pressure cookers, Food Network’s formidable fan favorite: 24 in 24: Last Chef Standing.

In his substack, The Sweet Release, Alex shares more about his journey back to our screens on 24 in 24. “I participated in this new season. It was an uncomfortable step for me,” he says. “At my core, I am an introvert and would almost always prefer to be at home with my family, cats and plants. That said, I have always believed there is value in pushing beyond your boundaries when it moves you forward.”

His television sabbatical did nothing to quell his peers’ apprehension as he entered the arena. The thing about Alex? Between his expertise in molecular gastronomy and unbridled creativity, he’s a force in the kitchen — and anyone who’s anyone on the culinary scene knows it. As Alex walked into the 24 in 24 kitchen, host Michael Symon put it perfectly: “Alex has been around. I’ve eaten at his restaurants. He’s one of New York’s most celebrated chefs. Maybe America doesn’t know, but those other 23 chefs right now are like, ‘Oh God.’”

So, what do the other 23 chefs know that you don’t? Allow us to bring you up to speed on Alex’s culinary journey.

The Path to Pastry

Alex was born in Leominster, Massachusetts. He devoted himself to food from a young age, thanks to the influence of his grandfather, a chef, and his father, who worked in the food industry. By his teen years, Alex was preparing holiday feasts for his family and competing at national levels for culinary scholarships. His efforts paid off, and he earned a full scholarship to the esteemed Culinary Institute of America. Alex worked for Ken Oringer at Clio as his externship and, while there, he was tasked with preparing dessert in the basement. His response was … unenthused, to say the least. So, what changed?

Ken handed him Albert Adrià’s first book, Los Postres de El Bulli. In conversation with Greg Morabito and Helen Rosner on Eater Upsell, Alex shares, “It wasn’t about dessert for me; it was just about ideas that were so artistic and strong. The idea of deconstructed tiramisu, or the idea of something that’s always hot is now cold, or something that’s always savory is now sweet.

“And I started wanting to be in that basement, making desserts. And then I started to not want to leave that basement. And that’s how I ended up becoming a pastry chef. It was partially about autonomy, because most chefs don’t like dealing with dessert. As a pastry chef, I got to hide away in a different kitchen and deal with a set of skills that the savory team didn’t want to touch. Which meant you could, at a very young age, actually put ideas on a menu, which was exciting. At the age of 22, to be able to do that, that was really cool and important to me.”

After graduating in 2001, Alex landed a joint sous chef and pastry chef position in Boston. “I said, ‘Here’s the deal, I’ll be the sous chef and the pastry chef, and you don’t have to pay me more money. Just put my name on the menu and let me make whatever I want for dessert.’ And that was my first pastry chef job. Which then turned into another job, and another job, which ended up being Alinea, amazingly.”

Alex worked at Alinea with Grant Achatz in Chicago. He contributed nine dishes to the tasting menu and provided several recipes for the Alinea cookbook. Eventually, Alex packed his bags and moved to New York City with his wife (and fellow pastry chef!) Lauren Resler. On Eater Upsell, he shares, “I was like, ‘Well, there’s only one restaurant in all of New York that would actually let me cook the way that I’ve been cooking.’ So, I sent Wylie [Dufresne] a letter and said, ‘Look, I know you have a great pastry chef, but if anything ever changes, give me a call.’” As luck would have it, he called a month later. Alex began working with Wylie as the executive pastry chef at what would become a groundbreaking, Michelin-starred restaurant, wd~50. Located in Manhattan, wd~50 paved the way for American molecular gastronomy — and Alex’s contribution played a major role in that happening.

Alex took time away from wd~50 to compete in — and win — Iron Chef in 2008. He spent a few more years as a pastry pioneer before deciding to walk away from it altogether and recommit his creativity and attention to savory cuisine. More specifically? Mexican cuisine.

Turning to Tacos

In 2012, the boundary-pushing chef followed his passion for Mexican flavors and ingredients, opening his first restaurant, Empellón, in Midtown. He was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs a year later and went on to open more restaurants under the Empellón brand.

When asked what inspired his (hard) pivot from working as an acclaimed pastry chef to opening a taqueria on AndrewZimmern.com, Alex shared, “My primary inspiration is the deliciousness of Mexican cooking. Beyond that, it’s important for me to continue to grow and evolve throughout my career. I believe that creativity is about doing what you don’t know how to do. To that point, if I had simply continued on the path of a pastry chef I would have found myself in a rut.”

Empellón, his flagship, serves contemporary American cuisine with Mexican influences. The menu rotates to celebrate seasonal ingredients, but some staples include guacamole, tableside steak tartare, dry-aged New York strip fajitas and grilled branzino with yellow molé.

Empellón Taqueria & Bar, located in the West Village, offers more casual fare. Think: bar snacks, tacos and the best margaritas you’ve ever had.

Empellón Al Pastor, located in the East Village, offers the same laid-back vibe as the Taqueria, serving tacos, margaritas and beer on tap.

As Seen on Chopped

Although Iron Chef was Alex’s last win on Food Network, it wasn’t his last appearance. The celebrated chef carved out some time to serve as a guest judge on Chopped in 2014 and 2015. He employed his discerning palate and technical expertise to evaluate dishes and shared feedback with competitors.

24 in 24: What's in Store?

Now that you’re all caught up on Alex’s ascension through the culinary world, it’s easy to understand why his peers consider him a threat in the 24 in 24 kitchen.

Not only has this James Beard Award-nominated chef and restaurateur mastered technical skills in pastry and savory cuisine, but he has a relentless drive for excellence, a strategic mind, a need to push boundaries and an unparalleled ability to create innovative dishes under pressure. Beyond that, he’s entering the competition with motivation to win the prize money to support his children.

“Going through COVID was one of the most challenging things I ever dealt with in my life,” he says. “It got so bad I emptied out my kids’ college savings to help make payroll for my own restaurant. I have a responsibility to my team because they're taking care of their families, but I don't have any eggs in any other basket. Winning 24 in 24 would be an amazing chance to replenish some of that money that I lost in my children's college savings.”

As the clock ticks down, hour by hour, Alex continues to live up to his reputation. We’ve seen him strategize, cook outside of his comfort zone and push himself to plate dishes that exceed expectations. Will he have what it takes to remain in the high-stakes kitchen? Only time will tell.