Heat a cast iron skillet over medium-high to high heat. Put a platter in the oven to warm.
Combine all the spices in a small bowl. Score the skin of the fish with several shallow hash marks using a very sharp knife. Season the fish on both sides with lots of salt and pepper, to taste, and rub both sides with spices.
Add the oil to the hot pan and cook the fish in 2 batches, until firm, about 4 minutes on each side. Transfer the fillets to the warm platter. Serve with lemon wedges and garnish with parsley or chives.