Special equipment: Stovetop smoker
Salmon: Soak wood chips in a large bowl of cold water for at least 30 minutes. Toast the whole spices in a small skillet over medium heat until aromatic, about 1 minute. Cool and grind in a spice mill or clean coffee grinder. Add the salt and set aside. Rub the salmon thoroughly with 3/4 teaspoon of the rub and let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes. (Save extra spice rub in a sealed container for up to 3 months.)
Drain the chips and scatter in the bottom of the stovetop smoker. Heat the chips over medium-low heat until smoky, about 10 minutes. Cook the salmon, covered and skin side down, on a rack in the smoker, until just cooked through, about 15 minutes. Set aside on a rack to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate if not serving right away.
Crema: Stir all the the ingredients together to make a smooth sauce.
Cut or flake the salmon into even portions. Serve salmon with warmed corn tortillas, or on black bread or sliced cucumbers with a drizzle of the chipotle crema.
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